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The
ELIZABETH PARK CENTENNIAL ROSE
The long awaited
rose is here. Elizabeth Park Centennial is in the
Rose Garden. It is a beautiful, pale pink, with a raspberry or deep
pink picotee edge, hybrid tea. The form of the bush is upright and
it is of medium height. It has a fairly fast repeat and it seems to
always be in bloom.
Elizabeth Park
Centennial was hybridized by John Mattia of Orange, Connecticut.
John is an amateur hybridizer, but he is no amateur when it comes to
roses. John is one of the top three rose exhibitors in the United
States, having won all of the top national awards including the
prestigious McFarland and Nickelson trophies. John is one of the
founding members of the Connecticut Rose Society, he is both a
consulting rosarian and a master consulting rosarian for the
American Rose Society, as well as being a Horticultural Judge. John
is also a member of the Board of Directors of Friends of Elizabeth
Park.
In 1998, John
accepted the challenge of hybridizing a rose to commemorate the 100th
anniversary of the Elizabeth Park rose Garden. He met the challenge
well and Elizabeth Park Centennial was chosen out of all his
seedlings. The original introduction of Elizabeth Park Centennial
was unfortunately delayed because of production problems with a
small commercial grower. Luckily, John still had a few bushes in his
garden. He contacted Tom Carruth, the head hybridizer for Weeks
Wholesale Roses, who agreed to produce Elizabeth Park Centennial.
The Friends knew that they would have Elizabeth Park Centennial, we
just had to wait. The stock or mother plants would be available for
planting in the 2006 garden and the orders would be ready for
purchase in May, 2007. John has exhibited his blooms of Elizabeth
Park Centennial this spring in two New England rose shows and has
won the coveted Best Seedling award in each show.
This rose,
planted in pots, is a limited edition and will be available for
pick up in May of 2007. If you would like to have a
commemorative Elizabeth Park Centennial rose, you may reserve it
by sending your check and the order form to the Friends.
Text: Donna
Fuss
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Centennial
Rose Photos: John Mattia
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Roses that grow in warm climates shoot out
thicker canes than you will see in New England.
These bushes, by growing in a warm climate, tend
to set stem buds that will break into new stems
the following year higher on the stem. These
bushes actually do the same thing in
Connecticut, but unfortunately those buds
further up the stem suffer winterkill along with
the stem due to our winter temperatures.
There is a logical explanation to the reason
some people have found their Elizabeth Park
Centennial roses in poor shape this spring.
The major reason is inadequate winter
protection, but there are some well
established cultural reasons for the dieback
and established ways to bring most of these
bushes back to life.
I know everyone was elated when they saw the
truckload of robust bushes with super thick
stems at our distribution day last spring.
Frankly, I never have seen such a collection
of thick cane roses in one place like that
in my 42 years of growing roses. But, I also
know that thick canes on bushes grown in
California are not necessarily the right
bushes to grow in New England. In fact, when
I buy bushes at local nurseries, I always
look for bushes with clusters of thinner
canes than most of those EPC roses had.
I brought home six bushes from our distribution;
I gave the three with the smaller canes to
friends, and they survived the winter. I planted
the remaining three in my garden. (See the
photos below that were taken this afternoon
right after the rain stopped.)
When I pruned the EPCs back in early May, those
bushes with the thick stems were dead down to
2-4 inches (Photos #1 and #2). The remaining 2-4
inch stems showed some green, but I immediately
noticed no viable buds swelling. In contrast,
the bush with the thinner stems had about 6 inch
green stems, and they showed buds starting to
swell. (Photo #3)
I have seen this problem many times in the past
with big bud unions--thick stem bushes in their
second year. There may be no growth starting in
the stems, but the odds are that the knot is
still alive, and awaiting the conditions to
revitalize items. What are those conditions?
1. Warm weather. (This is mother nature's job.)
2. Sunshine hitting the knot. I carefully remove
all the soil away from the knot to prevent
knocking off a
swelling bud on the knot so that the warm rays of the stem
warm the bud union.
3. I water the bush heavily every day.
Within two weeks, if there still is life within
the bush, you will see basal buds forming on the
knot.
The pictures below will illustrate this.
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Note how the soil has been removed
all the way to below the bud. |
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This is the second thick stem rose;
again note how the bud union (knot)
is totally exposed; there are buds
starting on the union but none on
the thick stems. |
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This is the third EPC bush I planted
last spring. Note that this one has
thinner stems, and that buds further
up the stems are breaking without
the need to "sweat" buds to break
off the bud union. |
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This is a two-year old EPC bush that
I grafted myself and grew it
entirely in Connecticut for the last
two seasons. Note how the thinner
stems are loaded with fresh new
growth. |
Another factor which compounded this problem
with thick canes is the warm fall we had last
November into early December. I had to delay
hilling my roses by two weeks, because for the
first time in more than a decade, we had
cuttable roses on my bushes up to the week
before Thanksgiving. This is unusual because I
have a very shady yard in mid fall which
normally pushes my roses into dormancy earlier
than most gardens.
Here's my advice on what to tell people who call
about their roses.
1. Spring is still early, and if they are not
seeing any buds breaking on the stems, and even
if the stems are dead down to the bud union, the
odds are that there still is life in the bud.
2. Tell them to carefully remove the soil around
the bud union, all the way to below the knot,
Care is need to avoid breaking off any possible
buds just starting.
3, Then water it regularly, every day if it was
dry like last week.
4. Within 2-3 weeks, basal breaks (buds on the
union) should start to appear like in the photos
above.
When I lecture on rose culture and winter
protection in Connecticut, I tell people the
purpose of winter protection is to keep life in
the bud. If a rose enters the winter season
after a healthy growing season, the odds are
there is still life in the union even if all the
stems are dead down the bud union. It takes a
little work to get the rose growing again, but
in most cases, this works.
I hope this information helps.
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